Scotland by Train: The West Highland Line Explained

Rannoch Moor at first light, the Glenfinnan Viaduct sweeping out of Fort William and white sand beaches with Rum and Eigg on the horizon. In episode 218 of the UK Travel Planning Podcast, Tracy and Doug Collins walk you through the West Highland Line from Glasgow Queen Street to Oban, Fort William and Mallaig, a route they have travelled many times over many years.

This episode covers the practical side as well as the scenery: how the train divides at Crianlarich, which side to sit on for each stretch, what tickets and passes work on the line, how the Caledonian Sleeper and the Jacobite fit in, and whether the round trip is realistic in a single day.

If this episode has you thinking about seeing more of Britain by train, we recommend Doug’s free tips guide 12 Essential Things to Know About Train Travel in the UK, and his Guide to UK Train Travel.

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What you’ll learn in this episode

• Where the West Highland Line actually goes, and why one line has two very different ends at Oban and Mallaig
• What happens when the train divides at Crianlarich, and why you do not need to worry about ending up in the wrong portion
• Why 164 miles takes just over five hours to Mallaig (and just over three to Oban), and why the slow pace is part of the appeal
• The first stretch out of Glasgow: when the commuter belt gives way to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs
• Highlights between Crianlarich and Fort William, including Bridge of Orchy, Rannoch Moor and Corrour, the highest mainline station in the UK with no road access
• Which side to sit on for each stretch, including the right-hand side for Ben Nevis and the left for the Glenfinnan Viaduct, and why Doug says not to get too hung up on it
• The Fort William to Mallaig extension: Glenfinnan Viaduct and Monument, Loch Shiel, Loch Eil, Arisaig, the white sands at Morar and views to Rum, Eigg, Muck and Skye
• Mallaig or Oban: what each is like as a base, and how both work as gateways to the islands (Skye from Mallaig, Mull and Iona from Oban)
• How the Caledonian Sleeper Highlander from London Euston fits into a West Highland Line trip, and why Doug’s answer is sleeper up, daytime back
• The Jacobite steam train versus the regular ScotRail service: same route, same viaduct, different engine, and why a BritRail Pass is not valid on the Jacobite
• What tickets cost in practice (booking six weeks ahead versus tomorrow), why a return costs little more than a single, and how a Railcard or BritRail Pass applies
• Practicalities on board: seat reservations, unreliable Wi-Fi, no guaranteed trolley service and limited luggage space
• Whether Glasgow to Mallaig and back is realistic in one day, and the bus option from Oban to Fort William when the train times do not line up
• Accessibility on the line: step-free access at Glasgow Queen Street, Crianlarich, Oban, Fort William and Mallaig, and how to book Passenger Assist