Settle to Carlisle Railway [A Stop-by-Stop Route Guide]
If you’re staying in York, Leeds or the Yorkshire Dales without a car, the Settle to Carlisle railway is probably the train journey you keep reading about, with the Ribblehead Viaduct as the photo everyone shares.
It’s a lot to work out from home. These are ordinary local trains with no seat reservations, some stations are miles from the villages they’re named after, and with nearly three hours each way from Leeds, the wrong train can turn a lovely day into a very long one.
Doug spent more than 25 years working on the UK rail network and has travelled every UK train line at least once. This is his favourite single train journey in the UK, and his two most recent rides, Leeds to Carlisle and back, were both in summer, with one in June 2026. I’ve ridden it a couple of times myself.
We take you along the line stop by stop, with real train times from Leeds, which train to catch, which side to sit, which ticket to buy and where to get off, in winter as well as summer. It’s one of the routes in our guide to the best train journeys in the UK.
Good to know: this is an ordinary Northern train from Leeds to Carlisle, not a heritage railway. It takes about 2 hours 45 minutes; most trains call at every station between Settle and Carlisle; there are no seat reservations, and it’s busy year-round.
TIP: Doug’s advice is to take snacks and drinks, have enough memory cards and batteries for your camera, and be ready for the weather to change on the high ground, even in summer.
Leeds to Carlisle train tickets
Prices and times last checked: 31 October 2026
The Settle to Carlisle railway at a glance
The line is part of the normal National Rail network, run by Northern, so ordinary tickets, railcards and rail passes all apply. The steam trains you may have seen in photos are separate charter trips. Most people start at Leeds, where the trains begin, but you can also join at Skipton or Settle.
The route at a glance
- A. Leeds and Keighley
- B. Skipton
- C. Settle
- D. Horton-in-Ribblesdale
- E. Ribblehead Viaduct and station
- F. Dent
- G. Garsdale and Ais Gill summit
- H. Kirkby Stephen and Appleby
- I. The Eden Valley and Carlisle
Settle to Carlisle quick facts
- Distance: 72 miles from Settle Junction, just south of Settle, to Carlisle, with 14 tunnels and more than 20 viaducts
- Journey time: about 2 hours 45 minutes from Leeds, or 1 hour 40 minutes from Settle
- Trains: about eight a day each way from Monday to Saturday, fewer on Sundays
- The train: a Northern diesel train of a few carriages, standard class only, with no seat reservations
- History: built from 1869 by the Midland Railway, open to passengers from 1 May 1876, and saved from closure on 11 April 1989
The Settle to Carlisle line, stop by stop
The times below are from the 09:18 from Leeds, which runs Monday to Saturday in the timetable to 12 December 2026. Other trains take much the same time.
A. Leeds and Keighley
Leeds is where the trains start. The first half hour runs up the Aire Valley through Shipley and Bingley.
At Keighley, 25 minutes from Leeds, you can change for the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway, the heritage steam line to Haworth, with its own tickets, which our Haworth and Yorkshire Dales itinerary covers.
What to look out for
- The River Aire and the old mill towns of the Aire Valley
Get off or stay on? Stay on. Haworth is a day out in itself.
Doug’s pick: when we asked Doug for his favourite UK train journey in Episode 206 of the podcast, he chose this one, “over the Yorkshire Dales into Cumbria over the Ribblehead Viaduct.”
B. Skipton
Skipton, 37 minutes from Leeds, is a busy market town and a good place to join if you’re staying there, with a café on the platform. After Skipton the train calls at Gargrave, Hellifield and Long Preston, and the first views of the Dales open up.
What to look out for
- The first green hills and drystone walls after Gargrave
Get off or stay on? Stay on, unless Skipton is your base.
Busy every time: “Every single time over many years I’ve done the Settle-Carlisle line, it has been busy, whatever the time of year.”
C. Settle
Settle, an hour from Leeds, is the small market town the line is named after, a few minutes’ walk from the station. The Midland Railway station building is listed, and the old signal box by the northbound platform is sometimes open to visitors.
What to look out for
- The listed station building and the old signal box
- The long climb beginning just north of Settle
Get off or stay on? Stay on going north. Settle is a proper town with cafés and shops, so it makes a good break on the way back, in winter as well as summer.
On the trolley: the woman on the refreshment trolley on Doug’s trips was “very, very knowledgeable”. She explained a bit about the line and the viaduct, and sold a guidebook to the line and postcards of trains crossing Ribblehead. He’s seen her once or twice, so he reckons she’s a regular.
D. Horton-in-Ribblesdale
Horton-in-Ribblesdale, 1 hour 12 minutes from Leeds, is the walkers’ station, with Pen-y-ghent above the village. It’s the usual start of the Yorkshire Three Peaks, a walk of about 24 miles over Pen-y-ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough. The station café bar was open on Fridays and Saturdays from 10 am to 5.30 pm when we checked.
What to look out for
- Pen-y-ghent above the village
Get off or stay on? Stay on, unless you’ve come to walk.
Tracy’s note: I’ve ridden the line a couple of times, and it’s been quite misty, because it’s so high up.
E. Ribblehead Viaduct and station
Ribblehead, 1 hour 20 minutes from Leeds, is the stop most people have heard of. The Ribblehead Viaduct stands just north of the station, with Whernside behind it. It has 24 arches, stands 104 feet high at its tallest, and is about 440 yards long; around 1,000 navvies built it in the early 1870s.
From the train you only get a glimpse of the viaduct as the line curves onto it, so this is the place to get off and see it properly. It’s 5 to 10 minutes’ walk from the station across open moorland, so sturdy shoes help. The station’s small volunteer-run visitor centre and coffee shop tell the story of the line and the fight to save it, but opening times vary with the season, so it’s best to look before a winter trip. The Station Inn is a short walk away.
What to look out for
- The curve on to the viaduct, your glimpse of it from the train
- Whernside behind the viaduct and Ingleborough across the moor
- Blea Moor Tunnel just beyond, about a mile and a half long, with its ventilation shafts on the moor above
Get off or stay on? Get off. In winter it’s still a good stop on a clear day if you’re dressed for an open moor and don’t mind if nothing is open.
Our day at Ribblehead: in June 2026 we drove up from Haworth, walked to the viaduct and watched a passenger train cross each way and a freight train too. It really is quite a sight, with lots of people there doing the same. We talk about that day in Episode 208, our Northern England road trip, and Doug rode the line a couple of days later.
F. Dent
Past Blea Moor Tunnel, the train crosses Dent Head Viaduct (10 arches, 100 feet high) and Arten Gill Viaduct (11 arches, 117 feet), with Dentdale below, and reaches Dent station 1 hour 30 minutes from Leeds.
At 1,150 feet, Dent is the highest main-line station in England, though Corrour, on the line in our West Highland Line guide, is higher still. The station is nearly five miles by road from Dent village, around 400 feet lower. There’s nothing here but waiting rooms, and no ticket machine. The old station building is a holiday let, and it’s very popular.
What to look out for
- Dent Head and Arten Gill viaducts, with Dentdale below
- The station sign at England’s highest main-line station, and the old wooden snow fences
Get off or stay on? Stay on, unless you’re walking or staying at the station. Nothing is open here in any season.
Our pick: on our June drive we went on from Ribblehead to Dent Head Viaduct, which Doug’s video calls “a wonderfully peaceful place to stop”, and an RAF jet flew over while we were there. We haven’t stayed in the station house yet, but we both want to.
G. Garsdale and Ais Gill summit
Garsdale, 1 hour 35 minutes from Leeds, is a quiet junction on the moors. On the platform is a life-size bronze of Ruswarp, the Border Collie whose paw print was added to the 1980s campaign against closure. DalesBus lists some bus links from Garsdale, but check their timetable before relying on one. A few miles on, the line reaches Ais Gill summit, 1,169 feet up and its highest point, then runs down the Mallerstang valley under Wild Boar Fell.
What to look out for
- The statue of Ruswarp at Garsdale
- Ais Gill summit, the top of the line
- Wild Boar Fell above Mallerstang
Get off or stay on? Stay on.
The weather: on Doug’s two trips, “both days started with beautiful sunshine, but as it headed to higher altitude, it rained both times, unfortunately, so I have to redo it.”
H. Kirkby Stephen and Appleby
Kirkby Stephen, 1 hour 48 minutes from Leeds, is about two miles from the town by a signposted footpath. Just after it, the train crosses Smardale Viaduct, 12 arches and 131 feet high, the tallest on the line.
Appleby, two hours from Leeds, is a small market town on the River Eden, and its station has a ticket office. On platform 2 there’s a water crane, still used by the steam specials, and a plaque to the railway photographer Eric Treacy.
What to look out for
- Smardale Viaduct, the tallest on the line
- The River Eden as you come into Appleby
Get off or stay on? Stay on at Kirkby Stephen, as the town is too far for a short stop. Appleby is the better choice for a break in this stretch.
Riding both ways: Doug didn’t get off on the way on either trip. Plenty of people ride there and back, and on the return, he says, “it pretty much has been the same people” every time.
I. The Eden Valley and Carlisle
The last stretch runs through the greener Eden Valley, calling at Langwathby, Lazonby and Kirkoswald, and Armathwaite, then through the wooded Eden gorge, reaching Carlisle 2 hours 44 minutes after leaving Leeds. Carlisle has a castle and a cathedral near the station, and our guide to places to visit in North West England covers more.
What to look out for
- The River Eden and its wooded gorge after Armathwaite
Get off or stay on? Stay on to Carlisle, then decide whether to look round or head straight back.
At Carlisle: the train comes into a bay platform. On his first trip Doug had a walk round, with the castle, the bookshops and a tea and cake. On his second he came straight back to Leeds on the same train.
Planning your Settle to Carlisle train trip
Leeds to Carlisle train times
These are example times from Northern’s timetable running to 12 December 2026. On Saturdays the afternoon trains run at slightly different times, and on Sundays there are fewer trains, the first from Leeds at about 9am, so check the day you travel.
| Leaves Leeds | Settle | Ribblehead | Arrives Carlisle | Runs |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 09:18 | 10:22 | 10:38 | 12:02 | Monday to Saturday |
| 13:18 | 14:20 | 14:35 | 16:00 | Monday to Friday |
| 18:18 | 19:19 | 19:34 | 20:57 | Monday to Friday |
| Leaves Carlisle | Ribblehead | Settle | Arrives Leeds | Runs |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10:58 | 12:21 | 12:35 | 13:36 | Monday to Saturday |
| 14:50 | 16:14 | 16:29 | 17:36 | Monday to Saturday |
| 16:17 | 17:42 | 17:58 | 19:08 | Monday to Friday |
The timetable changes on Sunday 13 December 2026, so check the new times for travel after that date. The full Leeds to Carlisle timetable for each period is on Northern’s timetables page.
Settle to Carlisle day trip ideas
Doug’s view is that “it depends on your travel plans”, but he prefers to start and finish in the same place, for value and to see both sides of the train: “I cannot see a reason why you would not want to do the journey twice.”
| Plan | Out | Time there | Back |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leeds to Carlisle and back | Leeds 09:18 | Carlisle 12:02 to 14:50 | Leeds 17:36 |
| Ribblehead and the viaduct | Leeds 09:18 | Ribblehead 10:38 to 12:21 | Leeds 13:36 |
| Ribblehead, then Settle | Leeds 09:18 | Ribblehead 10:38 to 12:21, then Settle 12:35 to 16:29 | Leeds 17:36 |
| One way and on | Leeds 09:18 | Carlisle 12:02, then on to Scotland, the Lakes or Newcastle | No return |
The Ribblehead and Settle plan needs a ticket that allows a break of journey, such as an Off-Peak return, the Northern Explorer or a rail pass, rather than Advance tickets.
In winter it’s dark by about 4pm, so the 14:50 from Carlisle crosses the high ground at dusk or in the dark, while both Ribblehead plans get you back down from the hills in daylight. Our guide to day trips in Yorkshire has more ideas.
Which side to sit on the Settle to Carlisle
Heading north from Leeds, the left-hand side just edges it for Doug, and that’s the tip he gave in our Haworth itinerary. Asked again, he said: “Quite honestly, there is so little to choose between the two sides of the train… Possibly, yes, the left does edge it, but there are stunning views on both sides.”
On a return trip he sits on one side going up and the other coming back. Joining at Leeds, where the trains start, gives the best chance of the side you’d like and two seats together, since seats can’t be reserved.
Tickets, railcards and passes
- There and back on set trains: two Advance singles are usually cheapest, and that’s what Doug bought, but they only cover the trains you booked. Northern was showing Advance fares from Leeds to Ribblehead from £7.00.
- Stopping off on the way: an Off-Peak or Anytime return normally lets you break your journey. Off-Peak tickets aren’t valid on the earliest weekday trains.
- Hopping on and off all day: the Northern Explorer is £35 for one adult for one day (children aged 5 to 15 are half price) and covers unlimited travel on Northern trains at any time. It costs more for extra days or people, railcards can’t be used with it, and it doesn’t cover other companies’ trains, such as LNER to London.
A railcard takes a third off most fares, Advance tickets included. The Two Together Railcard suits couples, though on weekdays it’s only valid after 09:30, so not on the 09:18 from Leeds. The Senior Railcard is for anyone 60 or over. For a single day out, a railcard rarely pays for itself, so it matters more on a longer trip. Our guide to saving money on rail travel in the UK explains how they work.
If this is one of several train journeys on your trip, a pass may work out cheaper. BritRail passes are for visitors from outside the UK and cover scheduled National Rail trains in Great Britain, including Northern. The Interrail Global Pass also covers Great Britain, which suits longer trips that include Europe. Our BritRail Pass guide and BritRail vs Interrail comparison help you choose.
Rail passes and ordinary tickets don’t cover the steam specials or the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway, which are booked separately. Step-free access varies between stations, and you can book help ahead through Northern’s Passenger Assist.
Where to book
Settle to Carlisle train tickets
Railcards
BritRail passes, for visitors from outside the UK (ACP Rail)
Interrail Global Pass (ACP Rail)
For help fitting the line into a longer trip by train, Doug’s UK Train Travel 1:1 Consultation helps with exactly that, and his Guide to UK Train Travel covers tickets, passes and the network in detail.
Need help with your UK train travel? Ask Doug
Doug spent over 25 years working on the UK rail network. Book a 30-minute Zoom call, and he’ll answer your questions on tickets, railcards, passes, seat reservations, routes and connections. You can send him your questions beforehand. $97 USD
Food and drink on board
The refreshment trolley is run by the Settle-Carlisle Railway Development Company on some Northern trains between Settle and Carlisle, not all of them. On Doug’s trips it had sandwiches, crisps, chocolate, and tea and coffee. We’d bring food and drink as a back-up either way.
Steam trains on the Settle to Carlisle
Doug did a steam special over the line in the 1980s, and another is on his list. Book these charter day trips with the operator, not through the usual ticket sites.
- The Fellsman (Saphos Trains): Wednesday 9 June 2027, steam-hauled from Chester, picking up at Crewe, Wigan, Blackburn and Clitheroe among others, with about three hours in Carlisle. Fares from £135 in Standard. Details are on the Saphos Trains website.
- The Dalesman and others: West Coast Railways’ Dalesman runs on Tuesdays from York and Thursdays from Chester, and the Railway Touring Company’s Waverley and Cumbrian Mountain Express also use the line. None had 2027 dates when we checked, so the West Coast Railways and Railway Touring Company pages are the ones to watch.
Getting there and going on
Direct trains from London King’s Cross reach Leeds in about 2 hours 15 minutes, and there are frequent direct trains from York and Manchester.
From Carlisle, trains run north to Glasgow (about an hour and a quarter) and Edinburgh, south to Oxenholme for Windermere and the Lake District, and east along the Tyne Valley Line to Hexham and Newcastle. Our guide to villages in the Lake District has ideas for where to go next, and our Britain by train routes show how the line fits a longer rail trip.
Engineering works and winter
When we checked, Northern wasn’t showing any planned engineering works on the line this winter, but plans can change. National Rail’s status and disruptions page shows planned works up to 12 weeks ahead.
As on most routes in England, there are no trains on Christmas Day or Boxing Day, and Northern publishes a separate Christmas timetable for Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. The line is high and exposed, so winter weather can bring delays and cancellations.
Where to stay for the Settle to Carlisle railway
Leeds is the easiest base by train, as the Carlisle trains start there. Skipton and Settle are both on the line and make good smaller bases for the Dales, and Haworth is where we stayed in June 2026. Our Haworth itinerary and Yorkshire travel guide have more. For something different, the old station house at Dent is on our own list.
Doug’s one tip for the Settle to Carlisle
“Take some snacks and drinks with you, and have enough memory cards and batteries, because there’s such a lot to see.” And if the weather turns, “just embrace it because even when the cloud is out there, it looks stunning.”
If you’re new to train travel in the UK, Doug’s free guide, 12 Essential Things to Know About Train Travel in the UK, is on our UK train travel hub, and our guide to the best train journeys in the UK has more journeys like this one.
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