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The Complete Guide to Walking the Royal Mile in Edinburgh

If you want to see the highlights of Edinburgh while immersing yourself in history, there’s no better way than to walk the Royal Mile. This route stretches between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, and is actually a little over a mile long. 

This guide will lead the way when you want to take a self-guided walking tour in Edinburgh. Covered here is what to see and do en route, including what to look out for. Of all the best walks in Edinburgh, this has to be number one!

When walking this route, we recommend you start at the castle and work your way down towards Holyrood. This means you get to take a downhill walk, instead of an upward slog. As the route ends close to Holyrood Park, you could also take a post-walk break there while enjoying the scenic views. 

If you do want to visit the castle, you can also do that before it gets too busy. But you can of course take the walk in any direction you like!

From the ultimate Edinburgh self-guided walking tour to where to stay and eat, plus our top tips and FAQs, read on. Here’s where to go and what to see on the famous Edinburgh Royal Mile. 

View down the Royal Mile in winter
Entrance to Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle at night

Edinburgh Castle is incredibly rich in history, and in the past, has been home to a succession of Scottish monarchs. Tour it today and you can see the ancient buildings, the Crown Jewels, and of course the sweeping city views from the top. 

Standing proudly on an elevated site above the cobbled streets of the Old Town, Edinburgh Castle is the perfect starting point for your Royal Mile walk. 

Click here to book tickets for Edinburgh Castle

Scotch Whiskey
Whisky

After leaving the castle, one of the first sites you’ll pass on the Royal Mile is the Scotch Whisky Experience. This popular visitor attraction shares the story of Scotch whisky. You can take tours, shop, dine, or attend tastings here. 

Tickets including tastings and a tour are very popular, and cover five Scottish whisky-making regions. 

Click here to book tickets for the Scotch Whisky Experience

Close to the Scotch Whisky Experience is Camera Obscura and World of Illusions. This appeals to people of all ages, featuring five floors of illusions, scientific wonders, and interactive experiences. 

View down Alleyway off the Royal Mile
Advocates Close
Tenments off the Royal Mile
Fleshmarket Close
Fleshmarket Close

Don’t miss the alleyways that you will see along the Royal Mile! Look out for Advocates Close (for that great view of Scott’s Monument) and other wonderfully named passageways.

I did a fabulous tour a few years ago to learn all about the dark history of the Royal Mile which included exploring more of these fascinating alleys.

Gladstone’s Land is one of the Royal Mile’s oldest buildings. You can go inside to discover what life was like centuries ago, and view original costumes and other exhibits. Don’t forget to look up, so you can see the stunning ceiling frescoes dating from 1620. 

There’s also a cafe and ice cream parlour on the ground floor. 

Heart of Midlothian

The Heart of Midlothian Mosaic on the Royal Mile is in front of St Giles Cathedral. This spot was once the entrance to the city’s Old Tolbooth. It’s said to be good luck to spit on the heart, so don’t be surprised if you see football fans doing just that!

St Giles Cathedral 1
St Giles Cathedral

One of the key sights along the Royal Mile, the Cathedral of St Giles is the Scottish answer to London’s Westminster Abbey. Look out for the stained glass window featuring John Knox, an influential preacher who spread the word for Protestantism and the Church of Scotland. 

The church is open to everyone, has been a working house of worship for around nine centuries, and is the venue for important services, including those involving the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, and the Kirking of the Parliament. 

Free walking tours are offered daily, at 10.30 am or 2.30 pm.

Real Mary Kings Close
Real Mary Kings Close in Edinburgh

Just past St Giles’ is the real Mary King’s Close. It’s beneath the Edinburgh City Chambers building. It’s the only 17th century street in the city, and you can tour it to imagine what life for Mary King, and other residents, must have been like. 

The close allows you to immerse yourself in four centuries of history, and has been named as Scotland’s Best Heritage Tourism Experience.

Click here to book tickets for the real Mary King’s Close

John Knox House

Moubray House and John Knox House are conjoined, and dating from 1470, together form the Royal Mile’s oldest mediaeval building. Knox didn’t actually stay here for long, but it’s his association with it that means it’s still standing. 

If you go in, look up at the The Oak Room ceiling to find the hidden devil. John Knox House forms part of the Scottish Storytelling Centre.

Whether you’re travelling with kids or want to please your inner child, the Museum of Childhood on the Royal Mile is a must. It’s free to enter, too, with a suggested donation of £3 per person. 

Exhibits span the period from the 1800s to today, and include toys, games, books, dolls, and even clothes.

Just off Cranston Street on the Royal Mile is the Chocolatarium, where you can make and taste all kinds of chocolate treats. A must for chocoholics!

Click here to book tickets for the Chocolatarium

Like the Museum of Childhood, the People’s Story Museum is also free to enter, again with a suggested £3 donation. Objects, images, and stories are used here to tell the tale of the city’s working class residents, between the 18th and 20th centuries. 

The building is interesting too, as it’s a tollbooth dating from the 16th century. 

Canongate Kirk can be found right by the People’s Story Museum. A number of prominent Scots are buried here, and the Presbyterian church dates from the 17th century. See if you can spot the graves of the poet Robert Fergusson and the economist Adam Smith. 

As well as the Kirk, the Parish of Canongate includes the Palace of Holyroodhouse and the Scottish Parliament. It’s used by the Royal Family when they’re visiting Edinburgh. 

Toolbooth Tavern
Don’t forget to look up when strolling the Royal Mile!
Edinburgh Royal Mile article horizontal

The Scottish Parliament Building is at the end of the Royal Mile. It’s a modern structure, and construction commenced in 1999. Talks and guided tours take place here, and the public can also watch meetings, debates, and First Minister’s Questions. It’s always free to visit. 

Whether you enter or not, this bright, contemporary building with lots of curves, windows, wood, and local stone is well worth seeing. 

Palace of Holyrood in the rain
Queen Victorias dress
Dress belonging to Queen Victoria

This royal palace dates from the 16th century, and is also at the end of the Royal Mile, by Holyrood Park. Today this is King Charles III’s official residence, and was also once home to Mary, Queen of Scots. 

The State Apartments, the Throne Room, and the Great Gallery are among the highlights. There’s also a cafe for refreshments. Entry to the palace is ticketed. 

Click here to book tickets for the Palace of Holyroodhouse

Holyrood Park

Whether you want to climb up to Arthur’s Seat or simply unwind with a picnic, picturesque Holyrood Park makes the perfect stop at the end of your Royal Mile walking tour. You can even find a lake, St Margaret’s Loch, in this sprawling park. 

There are lots of restaurants, cafes, and pubs on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, so there’s no shortage of places to eat! You can simply pick one and wander on in, or we do have one recommendation.

Makars Mash Bar
Haggis at Makars Mash Bar

This Edinburgh eatery is rated fourth among all the city’s restaurants, which number over 1,600. It’s the place to sample hearty Scottish fare crafted from local ingredients. While meaty options of course feature, plant-based alternatives are available.  

Mashed potatoes are of course the speciality, served with a huge variety of flavourings and toppings. Makars Gourmet Mash Bar is situated on Bank Street, close to Lawnmarket. 

Here are some suggestions if you want to find hotels on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh. We also have a guide to where to stay in Edinburgh if you would prefer an alternative location.

  • 5 stars
  • Apartments

These deluxe apartments are only five minutes’ walk from Edinburgh Castle. There are studios, or apartments with up to three bedrooms, some with balconies. They’re luxuriously appointed and offer superb Royal Mile views. Breakfast is available daily, and there’s a gym and 24-hour reception desk. 

Click here to book Cheval Old Town Chambers

  • 4 stars
  • Hotel

This is a four star, landmark property offering three floors of accommodation. Luxury rooms come with large flat-screen TVs, iPod docks, and even GHD hair stylers. There’s a bar serving pub food and drinks, and you can also order room service. The castle is just five minutes away on foot. 

Click here to book the Inn on the Mile

  • 4 stars
  • Hotel

The Royal Mile’s Radisson Blu Hotel comes from a trusted name in hospitality and offers a range of room types. A real perk here is the indoor pool, sauna and gym.

You can also find Itchycoo Bar and Kitchen here, overlooking the Royal Mile. The concierge here is particularly helpful, too. 

Click to book the Radisson Blu

Steps in Edinburgh

If you’ll be walking in Edinburgh, comfortable footwear is a must! It’s easy to get heels caught in the cobbles, so avoid those. Sneakers for spring, summer and autumn, or walking boots for winter, are good choices to keep you comfortable all day long. 

It can get very chilly in Edinburgh in winter – and surprisingly hot in summer! Dressing in layers is the best way to cope with this, so you’re prepared for whatever conditions the Scottish weather brings. 

As in the rest of the UK, rain is a feature of Edinburgh life. So be prepared by bringing along a packable rain jacket and/or a compact travel umbrella. 

a person walking the Royal Mile in Edinburgh in the rain.

If you visit Edinburgh between late spring and early autumn, you could be surprised by how hot it can get! Even in winter you’ll need to drink water when doing lots of walking, anyway. 

If it’s dry and warm enough, bring along a picnic to enjoy in Holyrood Park at the end of your walk. While there are plenty of shops on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, many are gift shops, so you might like to pick up supplies from supermarkets in the Princes Street area. 

🎧 Listen to the UK Travel Planning Podcast Episode #58 which shares our tips for first-time visitors to Edinburgh

Pub on the Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is a series of streets leading between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood. The route through the city’s Old Town is actually a little over a mile. Along its length you can sample Scotch whisky, see ancient and modern buildings, and visit a range of museums and tourist attractions. 

The Royal Mile is in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town. It connects Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

The streets making up the Royal Mile are Castle Hill, Lawnmarket, High Street, Canongate, and Abbey Strand.

Bakehouse Close

The Royal Mile is actually slightly longer than a mile. So how long does it take to walk the Royal Mile? It really depends on the stops you make en route. If you walk briskly without stopping, you could make it in under half an hour. 

But in reality, stops and crowds will slow you down! It’s best not to rush this quintessential Edinburgh experience, anyway. 

Walking the Royal Mile in Edinburgh is an experience not to be missed! With so much to see and do along the way, it’s best to set out early to make the most of it. Allow at least a morning, but you could easily fill a full day with the sights there are to see. 

Plan ahead if you want to visit popular sites such as Edinburgh Castle, the Scotch Whisky Experience, Camera Obscura, or the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Tickets for the former, in particular, are often sold out, so be sure to book early to avoid disappointment on the day. 

🎧 Listen

  • Episode 88Exploring Edinburgh’s Greyfriars Kirkyard
  • Episode 87 Scotland Adventures with Edinburgh Black Cab Tours
  • Episode 73Unforgettable day trips from Edinburgh by train
  • Episode 6336-hour Edinburgh Itinerary
  • Episode 58Essential tips for first-time visitors to Edinburgh
  • Episode 26London to Edinburgh by train